Partridge Reds
From early September through January’s close, this game bird's culinary story mirrors the changing rhythms of rural life: once a medieval staple, later a Victorian pursuit, and now a centrepiece in conversations about farming, conservation, and the evolving future of game shooting.
A rich, reduced red wine sauce is a classic companion to roast partridge, especially when made with fine wine, game stock, onions or shallots, and a bouquet of aromatic herbs. The aim is a glossy, deeply flavoured sauce that enhances the bird’s subtle, earthy notes without overpowering them. Restraint and harmony are essential, and mushrooms, chestnuts, celeriac, bacon, lentils, or roasted root vegetables add warmth and texture to the plate.
A New World Pinot Noir, especially from cool-climate vineyards such as Oregon, New Zealand, Tasmania, or coastal California, pairs beautifully with roast partridge. Its aromatic fruit, layered with savoury complexity and lively freshness, beautifully echoes the bird’s delicate game character. The Pacific Rim vineyards feature again.
Compared with many Burgundies, New World examples often have greater fruit concentration and sweetness, creating an attractive contrast with the savoury meat. Cherry, raspberry, cranberry and strawberry complement the slightly sweet, nutty flavour of roast partridge without overwhelming it. Moderate tannins, light but fresh acidity, moderate alcohol and perhaps a touch of light oak work extraordinarily well.
A selection of six from Waitrose were acquired to see what might be a very suitable wine, ranging in price from £14.75 to £38.50. A panel was assembled, and the tasting progressed.
Two wines were significantly ahead of the pack:
1 - De Loach Pinot Noir 2024, California, USA
Cherries, citrus elements and cinnamon on the nose. Ripe and very pleasing fruit on the palate with balanced, medium weight combining earthy elements, touch of silkiness and a rounding medium-length finish. At this price, a really good example of a New Worl Pinot Noir. Ready for immediate consumption. Would also match with duck to perfection.
£15.00 - Waitrose - merchant link
2 - Carpe Diam Pinot Noir 2018, Anderson Valley, California, USA
Owned by Louis Roederer, this winery in the northerly Anderson Valley, is a text book example of how California can produce excellent quality and value. A region that is somewhat cut-off from mainstream Californian wineries the location is close to the Mendocino Coast and the Pacific Ocean providing ideal growing conditions for the Pinot Noir. Strawberries and blackberries sit on the nose. Delightfully velvety texture and richness on the palate, you might start considering this wine for turkey recipes down the line over the coming months.
£38.50 - Waitrose - merchant link
